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\begin{document}

\title{Subaerial Profiles at Two Beaches: Equilibrium and Machine Learning}



\author[1]{Mika Natalie Siegelman}%
\author[1]{Ryan A McCarthy}%
\author[1]{Adam Patrick Young}%
\author[2]{William O'Reilly}%
\author[1]{Hironori Matsumoto}%
\author[1]{Mele O Johnson}%
\author[1]{Connor Mack}%
\author[1]{R.T. Guza}%
\affil[1]{Scripps Institution of Oceanography}%
\affil[2]{University of California, San Diego}%


\vspace{-1em}



  
  \date{May 23, 2024}


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\begin{abstract}
Weekly to quarterly beach elevation surveys spanning 700-800 m
alongshore and 8 years at two beaches were each supplemented with
several months of ~100 sub-weekly surveys. These beaches, which have
different sediment types (sand vs. sand-cobble mix), both widen in
summer in response to the seasonal wave climate, in agreement with a
generic equilibrium model. Results suggest differences in backshore
erodability contribute to differing beach responses in the stormiest (El
Ni\selectlanguage{ngerman}ño) year. At both sites, the time dependence of the equilibrium
modeled shoreline resembles the first mode of an EOF decomposition of
the observations. With sufficient training, an equilibrium-informed
Extra Tree Regression model, that includes features motivated by
equilibrium modelling, can significantly outperform a generic
equilibrium model.%
\end{abstract}\selectlanguage{ngerman}%



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