Barrier breaching versus overwash deposition: parameterizing the
morphologic impact of storms on coastal barriers
- Jaap H Nienhuis
, - Leoni G.H. Heijkers,
- Gerben Ruessink
, - Leoni G.H. Heijkers

Jaap H Nienhuis

Utrecht University, Utrecht University
Corresponding Author:j.h.nienhuis@uu.nl
Author ProfileAbstract
Waves and water level setup during storms can create overwashing flows
across barrier islands. Overwashing flows can cause erosion and barrier
island breaching, but its sediments can also be deposited as washover
fans. These widely different outcomes remain difficult to predict. Here
we suggest that breaches develop when the sediment transported by
overwashing flows exceed the barrier subaerial volume. We form a simple
analytical theory that estimates overwashing flows from storm
characteristics, barrier morphology, and dune vegetation, and can be
used to assess washover deposition and breaching likelihood. Barrier
width and storm surge height appear as two important controls on barrier
breaching. We test our theory with the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic
model Delft3D as well as with field observations of 21 washover fans and
6 breaches that formed during hurricane Sandy. There is reasonable
correspondence for natural but not for developed barrier coasts. Our
analytical formulations for breach formation and overwash deposition can
be used to improve long-term barrier island models.Jun 2021Published in Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface volume 126 issue 6. 10.1029/2021JF006066