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Sediment transport and morphodynamic modelling for coasts and shallow environments
  • Vanesa Magar
Vanesa Magar

Corresponding Author:vmagar@cicese.edu.mx

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This book is mostly a research monograph, but I hope it is of interest to researchers and practitioners alike. A strong focus is on the dynamics of coastal environments at different scales and under a variety of forcings, using models, in-situ data, and remote sensing techniques. A broad overview of the different chapters is as follows. Chapter 1 briefly defines different spatio-temporal scales, as well as several essential terms and concepts. We present linkages with modern observation tools and regional models and introduce definitions and concepts related to coastal management. These concepts and tools may be used to solve endless research questions and provide interesting discussions. They are essential for the analysis of the physics and the dynamics, but also for assessing biogeochemical and ecological problems, and for communication with colleagues, authorities, or other interested parties. Chapter 2 provides essential information on the physics of open coasts and sheltered environments, including grain size distributions, sediment composition, bottom boundary layer dynamics, wave and tidal dynamics, and their effects on sediment transport and morphodynamic modelling, the main focus of this work. Chapter 3 then introduces basic and advanced regional modelling tools. We attempt here to guide best practices, for example, on grid generation, bathymetry interpolations, methods of solution. The chapter also covers different types of modelling approaches in wave-dominated and in sheltered environments. Data-driven methods are also discussed, as such decompositions into a small number of dominant patterns can be very useful to understand long-term dynamics. Finally, Chapter 4 provides detailed descriptions of typical applications of regional models, including estuarine dynamics, shoreline evolution, and environmental impacts of offshore structures. I would like to thank those who have made this project possible. First, thanks to CRC Press, whose support has been instrumental. I was glad to have them touching base from time to time, and checking whether the draft was (or not) making any progress. As the bulk of the book took shape, I benefitted significantly from Alan’s thorough reviews, in particular, his comments about adding examples and important results. Thank you, Alan, for all the time you invested in the past year to this project. I learnt how to synthesize well essential results after I read the book edited by Reginald Uncles and Steven Mitchell; that book was extremely valuable during the revisions of this work. I amply recommend it to anyone interested in these topics.Thanks to Anahi Bermudez Romero and Victor Manuel Godinez Sandoval for your help with the figures and schematics reproduced in the text. Thank you as well for looking after important deliverables in other projects, while I worked on this book. Finally, thanks to my husband and co-leader of the GEMlab, Markus Gross, and to our son Damian Gross-Magar, for their patience.